This is a part of a series on a pair of bespoke trousers made for me by the tailor house Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. (And which?). Watch. ), Thanks for the recommendation of the neapolitan tailors. I also wouldnt say it will make any difference seeing them both at different points. I would estimate 9cm but if you get a chance to measure it I would be grateful. if you have any other suggestions of tailors for morning wear (through word of mouth) I would be super grateful for the input Wonderful site! I hope someday to access (and afford) some pure Neapolitan tailoring but in our globalized world, even from a post-modern perspective purity is a questionable concept regardless. If I request a little less drape, is the W&S suit then comparable to a Henry Poole or G&H suit? The real benefits of bespoke are in the long term, for example when you have gone through it once or twice, and know exactly what you want and what to ask about during the sessions. From what Ive read on your blog and others, I think W&S are the superior tailor and Id rather compromise my style and get a better quality suit. All garments are cut and made in workshops in the west end of London. Desperate to find an occasion to wear it again! Or take in some pictures of styles you like. Perhaps try Graham Browne. I will take your advice and go with Whitcomb then. To commission a bespoke suit is the epitome of sartorial luxury. Eventually, in a visit to London last summer, I had W & S make me a versatile grey flannel three-piece and I was extremely pleased: absolutely wonderful cut and fit, and exquisite hand finishing. Thanks Simon for this wonderful blog, I also appreciate your point about opening up the possibilities, rather than providing something concrete and narrow, which is not something i had considered, but fully makes sense. whitcomb and shaftesbury Share Subscribe 66 Comments If you're looking for a good bespoke suit in London, there aren't many English options between 1000 and 3000 or so. Similarly for General Eyewear, great guys and i am very happy with the end result. So the variation in style is house to house, rather than cutter to cutter. "Artisan of the Year 2021" - Permanent Style I wouldnt ask any non-Neapolitan tailor to do Neapolitan to be honest. Thanks for your advice though, its useful. The prices are comparable. Most are closer to the 1000 make and finish, but simply charge twice as much. Incidentally, did you get a second (or third) pair of pants made and if so, what was the additional cost? I am no expert in cloth so I can very easily have been mistaken and, of course, you know better than I what you have being made. Youll find a few reviewed here, most obviously W&S, Graham Browne, Choppin & Lodge, and Manning & Manning. But as I live in Geneva, and Varese would not be such a long drive from here, would Sartoria Vergallo also be a great option for high-end bespoke at relatively good prices? They wont move the button or buttonhole, but they might open the shoulder seam and pick one side up slightly. I tried them at home but was not convinced, so i went back in and saw a third fitter (not sure where they get people from when John is not available) who agreed they were too baggy, and alterations were appropriately made. They opened first in Brunswick Square, in 1806, originally specialising in military tailoring, with particular merit at the time of the Battle of Waterloo. 11 St. George Street is a throwback to more elegant times. Another question: in another post you mention desiring to be measured at the house itself; a friend of yours had gone to a trunk show and did not receive good results with fit. To give some context, i am early 30s and now have the income to dabble with a few bespoke pieces; so far, this suit and spectacles from General Eyewear (selected based on reviews on your site, thanks!). The jacket theyve made me has jumped immediately into top place as both my best fitting AND most casually comfortable piece of clothing: the shoulders are just what I wanted, even softer (much softer) than in the suit jacket; there remains, despite the soft structure, a bit of English drape that I love in the chest; and really its the waist that is absolutely sublime a perfect pinch, fitting me so well between the arm holes and waist; most of all, the skirt is truly the most beautiful Ive worn in a jacket, with even the snifter-shaped patch pockets perfectly proportioned for its exquisite lines. The idea was to empower women and make them the primary wage earners in their families. The result may be due to specifics in my case. The cut is lovely and lean, with the suppression of the waist accentuating the sharp style we were going for single button, more open foreparts, unflapped pockets, plus that lap seam of course. Thanks! Its unlikely theyll be able to do it in much of a rush though, given it has to go back to Naples each time to be made. Thats a really great question, and very useful experiences of bespoke too. Id start with Whitcombs offshore bespoke. I will do something longer on his system though, so I can give as many details as possible. Interestingly, there is also quite a lot of drape to the chest something I like on my Anderson & Sheppard suits both for their comfort and impression of a bigger upper body. I wouldnt worry as regards experience John and Bob (coatmaker) have plenty of experience there. Also , Its great that you still bring your expertise to clothes within a lower price bracket .sometimes I think were losing you to the luxury market a little too much . I understand there a differences in style obviously. I initially thought I would go for A&S as I love the style and think they would guide me through the process extremely well. The workshop is a cooperative, so all the tailors own part of the company, and we guarantee full salaries for all our staff, rather than paying piece work. Whitcomb also pays for the education of all its employees children and the brothers have established an additional scheme that rehabilitates women who are either victims of trafficking or at high risk. solito e.2500 for suit, e2100 for jacket. The quality is similar, just with the price saving coming from the overseas make (presuming thats what you went for). What i wanted was them to guide on what would look best based on their (extensive) experience, which they never really gave. I must say that I sincerely couldnt be more pleased. Any other recommendations? The pleat on the trouser is quite shallow which makes it not functional. And in your opinion would a soft jacket from W&S be suitable to wear with relaxed chinos and jeans? My reason for the proposal is that i had a bespoke suit made by Whitcomb & Shaftesbury last year and i cant say i was impressed by their service, but i am also not sure if my expectations were set too high. Vergallo doesnt get enough attention they remain excellent value. Im always hesitant to suggest anything might be wrong with the jackets, without seeing them in person. Interesting to see how well a lime tie works too; I wouldnt have considered that. Simon I live in Geneva but get over to London at least once a year sometimes up to 3 times a year although never with any great predictability. If you decide to trust one and go for it how far can you impose your ideas of cut and style on them? Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Bespoke Cashmere Wool Safari Jacket Drakes London Style - 2500 In Blue (Large) at the best online prices at eBay! And 100 Hands does shirts in India but as the quality is so high, its still expensive, I had a navy worsted two piece suit made at W&S which was cut by Sian. People even complain when they find out some of the work is being done just off Carnaby Street, rather than in a basement off Savile Row. Id still call them an English tailor But its hard to say Id say buy whichever of the two you can stretch to. Today I met with Tim Everest, W&S, C&D, and Gieves & Hawkes. She corrected my trousers and identified there was an issue straight away. Its Hard to Make a Custom Raincoat. Thanks very much. The biggest danger is when you get to structural things (eg shoulders) or things that arent linear and therefore easy to describe (eg the shape of a lapel). Whitcomb & Shaftesbury makes hand made bespoke suits and shirts using traditional tailoring techniques Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Simon what is your experience with Rubinacci in London? How would you compare the style and quality of a W&S suit to either A&S or Steven Hitchcock? I am unsatisfied considering GB is 850 but their forte is not in this style of tailoring. Its not that big, no, around 300 depending on cloth. If youre into your clothes, you might well know the name Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. I commissioned a suit from W&S and Siam was the cutter. The coatmaker, Bob, is also coming on trips that John isnt. Im soon travelling to London, and am interested in a soft shouldered jacket or two. Really pleased although I think there might be some mistake I dont have a fitting in a toile. 1. I am a doctor trust and confidence is my core value. Normally I would have ordered the suit at the weight I normally am, not the higher weight. vergallo e.2200 for suit, e1750 for jacket Location makes no difference to me, but if you want it you can pay 1,700 for the privilege. W&S seem to be a interesting chaps.. Congrats on the blog. Programs were set up in a number of different vocations, from metalwork to embroidery. Moreover, thanks to the well-oiled workings of the Chennai workshop, New York customers who place orders during the first leg of the trunk show (November 16-19), will be able to have their pieces fitted when the brothers pass back through New York between November 29 and December 1, negating a long wait (most tailors wont return to fit clients till spring 2022). Bravo Simon, you sound extremely pleased with it. My advice would be, as with any bespoke, to start simple and classic. However, they didnt provide much design input during the process, and i really had to manage and push the project along. 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